The patterns for the sleeve lining are easily made by tracing. Extra fabric is added at the vent and at the sleeve head. My tailors chalk from B Black and Sons makes this very easy to do. Knowing how much I hate working with lining material, the quicker and easier this job can be done [...]
Blog posts
Making the sleeves
Since my last post, the better part of a day was spent sewing the lining into the jacket body. There will be some detail shots later, but the process isn't really worth belaboring. I'm just glad it's done. The next step is sewing and setting the sleeves. At this point Mr. Cabrera has one [...]
Patterns? We don’t need no stinkin’ patterns!
This post is all about "collar insanity". I never dreamed the collar would be completely handsewn and created "on the fly". Here goes. Hold on. Only the undercollar pattern is used. The seam allowances are trimmed off and a piece of bias cut French canvas is attached to one side. I used a fusible from [...]
My vote for Royal Wedding best dressed
The tailoring and fit of this outfit blew me away. The set of the sleeves appeared flawless. I would love to see the details of this coat up close.
Getting back on the horse
I've regained my composure after the lining fiasco, and I'm soldiering on. Getting out the Swedish tracing paper is where I should have started in the first place. I've laid it over the jacket front and drawn a new pattern. I actually went back to my old "gal pal", Edna Bishop to do this. The [...]
The crash!
I'm sure no one is crazy enough to be sewing along with me, but if you have the Cabrera book there is a huge error (or at least an area of potential confusion) on page 117! BEWARE! This is the beginning page of "The Lining". Of course he has you toss out any patterns you [...]
The slippery slope
We all know the feeling. You're dutifully following the instructions and then things start to get a little crazy. The coat fronts are moving along nicely, and then Mr. Cabrera tells me to throw out the facing pattern that comes with the pattern, and just wing my own. Oh man, this is the slippery slope. [...]
Last of the pad stitching
OK, moving along. The next step is to pad stitch the lapel area. I was really dreading this for some reason, but it wasn't difficult at all. I think all the practice on the plastron paid off. The pad stitching begins along the roll line in parallel lines. This time, however, the pick stitches will [...]
Attaching the jacket fronts to the canvas
I've cut out the jacket fronts and back. Each front is made up of 3 sections with horizontal pockets. I'm a little concerned that the pockets might want to sag, so I've inserted a 1" strip of wool canvas at the top edge of each pocket. This is being held in place with pick stitching. [...]
When UPS delivers great stuff
Thank God for the internet! Living here on the coast of Maine isn't ideal when I'm looking for real tailoring supplies. I occasionally get to NYC, but even then can't always find what I need. When I picked up the "guts" of my sport coat at Steinlauf and Stoller, they only had one choice for [...]
Mainelymenswear 