Only the undercollar pattern is used. The seam allowances are trimmed off and a piece of bias cut French canvas is attached to one side. I used a fusible from Steinlauf and Stoller which worked like a charm. The alternative method is to pad stitch the canvas to the felt; and although I’m getting to be a pro at pad stitching, the fusible was a faster way to go. This bit is then basted to the neckline of the jacket.
The next step blew me away. The top collar pattern is tossed into the trash. Instead the jacket with the attached felt is plopped onto a rectangle of the fashion fabric, and the top collar is “fabricated” by trimming and pressing it to conform to the felt. The whole construction is basted in multiple directions before finally being slip stitched together.
The seam between the collar and the lapel (the gore) is left open until the lining is finished. Oh boy, more poly acetate lining coming right up.