OK, moving along. The next step is to pad stitch the lapel area. I was really dreading this for some reason, but it wasn't difficult at all. I think all the practice on the plastron paid off. The pad stitching begins along the roll line in parallel lines. This time, however, the pick stitches will [...]
Category: tailoring
Attaching the jacket fronts to the canvas
I've cut out the jacket fronts and back. Each front is made up of 3 sections with horizontal pockets. I'm a little concerned that the pockets might want to sag, so I've inserted a 1" strip of wool canvas at the top edge of each pocket. This is being held in place with pick stitching. [...]
Guys who do (and DON’T) pad stitch
Why are these guys on today's post? Because I bet none of them has ever pad stitched anything in their entire lives! Maybe I'm dead wrong, but after spending hours with a needle and thread it seems highly unlikely. Pad stitching is a method of joining multiple layers of fabric so that they act as [...]
How to stay busy while the fabric is at the drycleaners
My linen has been renamed a "tablecloth" by the cleaners, and it will be ready in about a week. In the meantime I'm moving forward by "preparing the canvas." Canvas is the name given to the understructure of the jacket. It's composed of layers of different interfacings intended to give the jacket shape and also [...]
Wedding jacket, Muslin #2
Here are some shots of Muslin #2. I've made several small changes, and I think things are looking good so far. I lowered the buttons by 1.5 inches which allowed me to adjust / lengthen the lapel roll line. The Cabrera book makes these kinds of adjustments very clear. It helps me to have some "rules" [...]
Muslin #1
I'm following my usual procedures and transferring my pattern pieces to Swedish tracing paper. If you've never used it, I highly recommend it. Armed with a roll of scotch tape and some scraps one can adjust and alter with abandon! I'm also using the book Classic Tailoring Techniques by Roberto Cabrera. The book deserves an [...]
Avoiding a wedding faux pas
My lovely niece Shelley is getting married this June. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and it will be in the gardens at the beautiful Clay Hill Farm in York (or is it Oqunquit?) Maine. It's been my plan to make a sport coat for the event. I found an interesting 1980's pattern on Etsy that [...]
Mainelymenswear 