I'm not very good at following sewing blogs. Sure, I have a few favorites, but mostly I just meander from blog to blog. I never know what I might find, and that's part of the fun. Brew a pot of coffee and settle in. A few weeks ago I stumbled upon this....totally by chance. This [...]
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Tailoring geekery. This technique of setting the sleeves is from Roberto Cabrera. A strip of pocketing is basted into the armscy from the front notch to the underarm. The sleeve is pinned into place and then basted using small stitches. It's basted a second time filling in the spaces from the first line of basting. Now the sleeve can be sewn in without any pins, and the chance of getting a little catch is almost nil. That makes the extra steps all worthwhile IMO. The last picture is hemming the jacket. This technique is from Edna Bishop. A strip of bias muslin is sewn into the hem edge. Then the hem is folded back and the jacket is stitched to the muslin using a catch stitch. The result is a virtually invisible hem. Crazy...but this is all the stuff I love. #mainelydad ,#mensweartailoring ,#menwhosew ,#imakemyownclothes ,#tailoring , #simplicity6284
Progress on the shirt pattern that's becoming a jacket. I've put an inside welt pocket into the lining because it's just such a handy thing to have. It's one of the perks of making your own clothes....you can have exactly what you want. The front facing / lining is basted to the outer shell. The edge is then wrapped with a bias binding which I made with one of the Clover gizmos. (So much fun to use!) Once it's all basted into place I hand sew it invisibly for maximum control. #mainelydad ,#menwhosew ,#imakemyownclothes , #tailoring ,#simplicity6284 ,#biasbinding ,#slowsewing, #stylemakerfabrics ,#akfabricsny
It was a chilly 46 degrees two mornings ago, which made me realize that this jacket won't be warm enough. So I've decided to underline it with cotton flannel left over from old bathrobe projects. Of course all of this craziness will be covered up eventually. I'm also adding a hair canvas front to take this from shirt to tailored jacket. #mainelydad ,#menwhosew ,#isewmyownclothes , #simplicity6284 ,#vintagesewingpatterns ,#tailoring, #mensweartailoring
Who starts with the sleeves first???? Me...when it involves techniques I've never done before. This jacket has a continuous lap placket which is new territory for me. It involves tiny seam allowances (terrifyingly small!) that get even smaller. I practiced twice with muslin before launching into the real thing. I inserted a scrap of silk organza into the seams for extra support. With a bit of sewing origami it's possible to line the sleeve and complete the placket with a bit of handsewing. I'm glad to have this part out of the way! #mainelydad ,#menwhosew , #imakemyownclothes , #continuouslapplacket, #simplicity6284, #itpaystopractice, #stylemakerfabrics , #akfabricsny
Next up, a Fall dog walking jacket. This pattern is from 1965. I plan to make a more tailored version using a terracotta and gray cotton / linen tweed from @stylemakerfabrics. The linings are from @akfabricsny , who IMO have the best selection in the city. The trim will be a gray polyester suiting that I picked up at Jojo's. Copper buttons and maybe copper zipper pockets. @peterlappin called this "very Richard Chamberlain"! ❤️ Love it!! The mornings are getting cool here, so I need to get a move on. #mainelydad ,#menwhosew ,#imakemyownclothes , #simplicity6284, #stylemakerfabrics , #akfabrics
The blog is back! A Shirtmaking extravaganza. Do check it out. As always, adorable (yet sometimes uncooperative) Homer pics #mainelydad , #menwhosew ,#imakemyownclothes ,#shirtmaking ,#mccalls3559 , #sewover50 ,#so50vintage , #so50men,#madmenstyle #ilovemyseniordog, #ilovemyschnauzer
