OK. Work continues on my “Covid 19 Blazer”. When I left off I was talking about fitting issues. Namely, my curved upper back, and how I address that.
This happens with just about every pattern. The center back seam is quite straight, which makes the collar pull away from my neck. It looks bad, and it also feels all wrong. There’s a constant desire to grab the front of the jacket and pull it forward and down. Of course it just pops right back. The shoulder seam is also pulled to the back. It’s a double whammy!
This is how I go about fixing it. I wish I was more precise about how I do this. Basically I’m just winging it. I slash across the upper back to the seam allowance of the rear armscye. Then I swing the back up about 1 – 1 1/2″ in a sort of hinge action. Then it’s just a matter of taping in a scrap of Swedish Tracing paper.
In this shot you can also the the first part of the forward shoulder adjustment. Again this isn’t very precise. I put on the muslin, stand in front of a mirror and mark the apex of my shoulder with chalk. For this jacket I needed to move the seam forward 3/4″. A scrap of paper has been taped on.
All that remains is to subtract the same amount, 3/4″, from the front shoulder seam. This should be very easy to do…………but……….
For some reason I lopped off the excess at the neck edge rather than at the shoulder edge! Then I proceeded to blissfully cut everything out without a care in the world, convinced that all my fitting issues were solved.
When I discovered my error I didn’t know what to do first…. take an extra dose of my blood pressure med, or jump out the window. Maybe you’ve been there? That panic stricken feeling . You’ve just F$%^ed up royally and there’s not enough fabric left to cut out a new piece. What do you do?
You create a “design element”!
My solution was to cut what remained of the front shoulders at the correct angle, and to insert a 1″ strip to get the fronts back to the correct size. Does that make sense?
Here’s how it turned out. In a way I find it totally “believable” in light of the other details on this pattern… the contrasting bias bands on the pocket flaps, the elbow patches, the bias chest pocket. Who’s to say that Ron Collins didn’t add a little contrasting band to accentuate the shoulder seams?
Anyway, that’s the story I’m telling myself, and I’m sticking with it.
“Design Elements”. Been there?