I started this project right around Halloween after seeing the new Spring 2021 menswear from Givenchy. To be quite honest I really don’t know much about Givenchy. Only two things come to mind when I think of the house.
1. The logo of four G’s. (I had it on a necktie once)
2. Audrey Hepburn’s black dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
Oh……and there seems to be a revolving door of designers that come and go. The newest is a young guy, Matthew Williams. If there’s a signature Givenchy look, I fail to recognize it. But I’m always curious to see what the fashion powerhouses are up to, so I decided to take a look see. Here’s a link to the collection if you’re curious.
There’s a long wrap overcoat in the Spring collection (how this is a Spring / Summer look is a mystery to me), which caught my eye immediately. Here it is again for reference.
This minimalistic coat with its metal closure, and Closet Core’s Sienna Maker Jacket, instantly collided in my “sewist’s brain”. Kaboom! I knew after making the short version of Heather Lou’s pattern, that I would eventually return to make the longer wrap version. And suddenly that time was here!
Even though we were well into Fall, Kashi at Metro Textiles in NYC was still running his Summer sale. 50% off. So I scooped up 4 yards of boiled wool which he described as “Indian teal with an interesting texture”. It exceeded my every expectation. And even though I’m “stretch fabric adverse”, it was a breeze to sew.
Because I made the short version of Sienna last year, most of my fit issues were already solved. Here are the adjustments I made this time around.
- Dropped the waist 1 inch
- Increased the width of the belt to 2 inches
- Lengthened the coat by 6 inches and added a generous 2 inch hem.
- Used the vent pieces from the cropped version, lengthened and dropped them lower at the back.
- Added a slight bit of waist suppression at the center back to reduce the fullness.
- Moved the belt opening from the left front to the left side seam.
The biggest change by far, was to make the belt detachable at the right front. It makes getting in and out of the coat much easier. When making this coat according the the directions, the belt would be sewn to the right front. It would then need to be threaded through the slot in the left front, wrapped around the back and secured at the right side with D rings. It looks great, but seems a bit cumbersome. I wanted to be able to get in and out of this coat quickly and with less work. I accomplished this by adding a second buckle which ends up inside the coat when worn.
The belt passes through a wide belt loop in the lining before going out through the side seam. So far this is keeping the belt from falling out through the side of the coat.
Here it is in use. The belt is going out through the left side seam and around the back.
The other end of the belt is held in place with a belt keeper and a thread bar at the right side seam.
I made the belt keeper from a scrap of lining material. It buttons onto the back of the belt, and is completely hidden when the coat is worn. The thread bar that it passes through acts as a hidden belt loop. Together they hold the belt at the right side of the coat, and it’s simple to grab the belt and attach it to the buckle. So I have the look of a wrap coat with much less wrapping!
But enough with the details! Here it is. The 1980’s “big coat” for the 21st century.
From my home to yours, all my best for this holiday season. For all the difficulties that we’ve endured in 2020, I’m still grateful for so many things, and hope you can find that same sense of gratitude. The sewing community has been a true blessing for me. It’s not only a source of endless inspiration, but has been so encouraging and supportive of my projects. There really are no words to express how life changing this journey has been. Peace.