After weeks of procrastinating I jumped into the muslin phase, and it didn’t take long to figure out that I’ve got my hands full with this pattern. There were some pretty glaring problems right out of the envelope. So I decided to do some “preemptive” adjustments.
First off, the center back seam is ramrod straight and I know that I have what Roberto Cabrera calls “stooped posture”. Doesn’t sound very attractive, but it beats Dowager’s Hump any day! (Actually, I think they’re one in the same). I need more curve to the upper back, otherwise the collar will pull away from the back of my neck. Not a good look.
The fix for this is to create a 1/2 to 3/4 inch dart from below the arm hole to the center back. This has the effect of tilting the upper jacket forward. So here you see my adjusted pattern over the original.
To prevent the front of the jacket from drooping down, a corresponding dart is made on the jacket front.
And it looks like this.
Sleeves on jackets are always too long for me, so I shortened the sleeves by 1 inch.
I removed 1/2″ both above and below the elbow on the “shorten here” lines from my pattern. Using Swedish tracing paper makes this a breeze. I just fold it and stitch a 1/4″ seam on my machine. I also reduced the ease on the sleeve cap by 1″. My goal is to create a more natural shoulder. Time will tell if I can pull that off.
Lastly, I noticed the the front and back shoulder seams are the same length. According to Cabrera the back shoulder should be at least 1/2″ longer than the front. Easing the back into the front creates room for the shoulder blade. I don’t have a picture, but I simply added 1/2″ at the arm hole side of the pattern.
So here’s what those changes turned into…..
The center back adjustment has worked, but I think I still need a touch more curve. As you can see the collar still doesn’t want to sit against the back of my shirt collar. The shoulder seam is also running to the back of my shoulder. This isn’t a fitting issue addressed in Cabrera, but I feel that the shoulder line needs to be swung forward about a 1/2″ so that it sits closer to the apex of my shoulder. It would be a simple fix. Please chime in if you know the answer to this problem! Am I on the right track? My gut just tells me it needs fixing.
Eeeeek. The big problems are up front. The neckline is just too wide. Plus, I feel the jacket pulling across the shoulder / upper chest like there just isn’t enough fabric there. I think the solution to this mess may be two pronged. I’m going to try redrawing the neckline to add a bit of fabric towards my neck, in addition to slashing and separating the upper chest portion a small amount. Maybe 3/8″ to start. I’m open to all suggestions on this one. Something’s gotta give!
All these wrinkles are telling me I need a substantial belly adjustment! Also, the button placement (marked with chalk) on the original pattern is unusual to say the least. I’ll need to lower the stance by bringing the top button down at least to the level of the pin, maybe even lower.
Before sending this muslin to the dust bin, I let the side seams out about 3/4″ on each side.
This was the only glimmer of hope in what was, over all, a pretty dismal start.
On a brighter note……I picked up some lovely thistle design blazer buttons on eBay.
These are from Waterbury Button in Waterbury, CT. “The brass Capitol of the United States”. I love them. Now I just need to build a damn jacket around them!