I’ve assembled everything I need for this project, but…….my tailoring mojo has decided to go on vacation somewhere. So while I wait for it to come back, I’ll share where things currently stand.
First up…. Things to make tailoring a jacket easier.
Never underestimate the power of thread! If you don’t already own a spool of #40 cotton basting thread, go out and get one now. It’s amazing how something so simple can make such a huge difference in your sewing. It’s virtually tangle free, so it makes basting a breeze rather than an exercise in frustration. Soon, you’ll be basting everything.
Another tangle free wonder is silk thread. There’s a considerable amount of hand sewing in a tailored jacket so if one can make it easier, why not? Do the mere words “pad stitching” strike fear into your heart? Fear not. Silk thread will make it a walk in the park.
These spools are sitting on some black pocketing that I picked up at Steinlauf and Stoller during the MPB Winter Frolic. It has a woven in stripe. Classy and silly inexpensive, $7/ yd. The gold silk thread won’t see all that much use. I’ll use it for pickstitching the lining.
Other supplies that make life easier are premade sleeve heads (on the left), and premade hair canvas jacket fronts (right). The jacket fronts are sold by the chest size, and are very reasonable. I think about $12 / pair. Sure, you can make your own, and they may be superior, but you will pay much more just for the materials. In the end, I’m just not that much of a tailoring purist.
Materials in hand, I turn to the pattern…..
This pattern is from 1969. Purchased on Etsy. This pattern is unusual in the very small world of men’s patterns, because it doesn’t have darts running down the center of the jacket fronts. Instead, the darts extend from under the arm. This makes it the ideal pattern for a plaid jacket. The plaid is uninterrupted the entire length of the front. And for the truly ambitious, the pocket flaps can be matched as well!
Maybe someday I’ll attempt a plaid jacket. That thought is driving me to “perfect” the fitting of this pattern to the best of my ability; knowing full well that perfection isn’t really in my DNA. Unfortunately, it hasn’t gotten off to a very good start. It’s gonna take some serious mojo. More of the struggle next time.