Watanabe Jacket — Progress #3, Finishing details

Here are the final details of my Junya Watenabe knock-off project.

 

 

The sleeves were very easy to set, since all the ease (1 1/2″ of it) was removed. As always, I baste the hell out of everything. The uppermost row of basting is holding the lining and fashion fabric together. After pinning the sleeve in place, I baste again along the seamline. This pretty much eliminates the chance that I’m going to get a little catch in the fabric as I sew the seam. Oy! There’s nothing I hate more than having to redo a sleeve. I’d much rather invest the time in basting, and get it done right the first time around.

 

Bias binding applied to the raw edges.

 

 

A bias strip of sew-in interfacing is applied to the cuff. This makes for a much more substantial cuff.

 

 

A vented sleeve is simulated by the addition of a few buttons.

 

 

The lapel is trimmed with a wider bias binding. This was made with the 25 mm Clover bias maker (the blue one). The trim was basted in place and then edge stitched.

 

 

Patches feature heavily in Watanabe’s designs, so I added this one.

 

 

I only have a 1 1/16″ keyhole cam for my buttonholer, which is a little big for a 3/4″ button. I shortened the buttonhole by popping in a rivet. Problem solved.

 

 

I think I’m getting a little carried away with this project!

15 thoughts on “Watanabe Jacket — Progress #3, Finishing details

  1. So glad I came across this. I was looking for inspiration to bind the lapels of a mans jacket. Did you add the binding to properly made up lapels or are the lapel edges raw under the binding? Sorry if that doesn't make sense!

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  2. I totally get what you mean. I added the binding after sewing the facings to the jacket fronts, turning and pressing them. It just seemed easier that way. I had to trim as much bulk as possible out of the seams, otherwise it would be way to bulky.

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