Simplicity 6887 is for an unlined jacket, but making a lining isn’t all that hard and will really improve the wearability of this jacket. I just need to prepare myself mentally for working with polyester acetate, which must have been invented by the devil.
I’m using a lightweight lining that’s been in my stash for almost 2 years. I bought it in a fabric dive on W 35th St. with a certain celebrity sewing blogger who has a strong dislike of heavy linings. It was intended for a fall coat (the purple coat), and after getting it home and prewashing it, I decided it was just too wispy for my Maine climate. So it’s been sitting in a bin ever since.
It’s an iridescent brown / blue and will be perfect for this jacket.
This jacket has a back yoke, so I’m making the lining yoke out of some leftover oxford cloth. I’m hoping this will beef up the shoulders a bit, plus I just like the contrast. Both the back yoke and back sections are cut an extra 1″ wide to allow for a center back pleat.
Extra fabric is cut onto the sleeve sections for wearing ease. This is a technique I learned from the Japanese coat book. It adds extra ease to the armpit area and prevents rip outs. I’m not too precise about it. I just mark an extra 1″ to 1.5″ with chalk and cut. Everything eventually gets eased into place.
After much slipping and sliding of fabric (and cursing) I end up with this. I have a few details to attend to on the outside of the coat, namely making and positioning the belt loops. Then I will tackle attaching the lining and collar.