Pea coat muslin and a question

Just as a refresher, this is the book that I / we’re working from.  It should be pretty easy to find on either Ebay or Etsy.  The photography is really stunning.  So even if you never make any of the coats, the book is a pleasure to own.  BTW I’m showing it placed on the pattern sheet so you’ll know what you’re getting into! 
OK,  I’ve finished my muslin for the pea coat.  I have to say that it went together easily after I figured out the crazy dart at the neckline.  As usual, the sleeves are too long, so I’ve turned them up about 1.5 inches.  My alterations, which were made during the pattern tracing process, added 2″ of extra ease through the body.  There’s plenty of room.  I’ve pinned in a pair of shoulder pads which were much needed.  Otherwise, I would have been faced with the dreaded sloped shoulder adjustment.  The pads are easier, plus they give the coat a more tailored appearance.  
I’m pleased with the fit in the back and across the shoulders.  The sleeves were remarkably easy to set on this coat.  For once, there wasn’t an enormous amount of easing required.  My “sew-alonger” is concerned that the sleeves are too narrow.  She’s sewing for a size 42 guy, I’m a 40.  I suppose it all comes down to the man and how the coat will be worn.  I wouldn’t ever wear more than a shirt and sweater under this coat, so the sleeves suit me fine.  Wearing a suit jacket under it would be a totally different story.  In that case I’d want more room.  Then again, look at what Burberry is offering.  The emphasis is clearly on very slim sleeves (along with ridiculously young models).  
My co-sewer is also planning to lengthen the coat by 10″.  I say “go for it!”  The beauty of making our own clothes is getting exactly what we want.   I’m actually leaning in the complete opposite direction.  Here I’ve turned up the bottom hem an additional 2″.  I think it makes the coat a little “younger”, “fresher”, “hipper?”  I’d have to reposition the pockets, but that should be easy.  I don’t have many followers, but I’d love to hear your opinions.  Shorter? Longer? Oui? Non? 
Short version front
Short version back.  

13 thoughts on “Pea coat muslin and a question

  1. I love how this looks already! My muslin is down-right ugly, but it'll do the job! I like the length as it is (on you) but my personal preference is for longer coats, to keep the legs warm!
    I'm so so glad you're sharing this – otherwise I'd be completely lost!


  2. Absolutely the longer version. Wait, are the first shots in orange the same as the second? I like the length of the first shots. The bottom orange shots look too short to me.

    Great job so far!


  3. Thanks for the book cover shot. I keep drooling over the Japanese pattern books on etsy and elsewhere, just too many to pick from.

    I think both coat lengths look good – go for the one which feels most comfortable to you.


  4. I used this pattern last year to make a heavy tweed jacket for my son – my one regret is that I did not lengthen the coat because he really could use another 4″ in the length.I also found that the coat's lines really emphasize the fact that he tends to slouch so it's even shorter in the back, but he's happy with it.


  5. I vote for the longer version. It is more slimming (because of the coat's bulk – not you!) especially since the coat color is not a color that will usually match your pants.

    This lurker loves your work!


  6. I also vote for the longer version. Firstly the longer version is warmer and more cosy. Secondly the shorter version makes the upper body look more massive. As you seem to have a strong upper body allready the longer version looks more balanced and suits you better to my opinion.

    The muslin looks excellent and very promising.

    A pea coat is on my list as well and I will try to make one before the end of the winter.


  7. I see the bulk of opinion seems to be for the longer version, so I won't rock the boat (although I think both actually look fine, I can see the appeal of both lengths). If you did go for the shorter, however, I would suggest raising the opening of the back vent a smidge, as it looks a little short.

    Oh, and that does have to be one of the nicest looking muslins I've seen ever…


  8. I think I like the longer version better , it will lengthen your body more , and I think longer will make it more lux! But you should do what YOU think is fresh and hip ( that is what fresh and hip is all about , right?) Also , I love it! Way to rock it!


  9. I like the shorter version as it lengthens one's legs and you can almost sit down/get in and out of a car without unbuttoning it. What a great muslin! You are very lucky to have a sewing buddy!


  10. hi, i just found your blog via peter lappins blog and can i say your coats are so dashing! I am trying to make something nice for my boyfriend from a vintage pattern, but I can't read the muslin to change it. Would you please look at the photos i took of him wearing the muslin? I really don't know where to start on the changes and you are the first blogger i've seen with this much ability. If you can't I understand, I can still enjoy your detail photos!



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