Warning! This post will be of limited interest to anyone who isn’t trying to make this coat.
There are 2 darts on the front of this coat. One runs from the armpit to behind the welt pocket. Very straightforward. The other is at the neckline, and has to be the most bizarre construction I’ve run into yet. It took a couple of tries, but I finally figured it out. Here goes…..
This is the corner of the shoulder seam and neck opening. The seam allowances have to be added while tracing the pattern. I’m using 5/8″ seam allowances. Add the allowance along the shoulder seam, turn the corner and add the allowance along the neck opening until you reach the TOP of the dart. Draw a horizontal line across the top of the dart markings into the area of the neck opening. Then continue with the 5/8″ allowance to complete the neck opening.
You’ll end up with a jog in the neck opening.
Mark the dart, I’ve used tailor’s tacks, and stitch the dart.
You will end up with a tuck.
Now, very carefully clip the top of the dart as close as possible to the top of the stitching. You will have to make one other very small clip to release the tuck. Very hard to describe, but you will sense what has to happen. Trust me.
Press the dart and the neck edge will magically form one continuous line. The top of the dart will be just barely inside the seam allowance. At this stage of the game it would be a good idea to staystitch the neck opening. Don’t worry about the clip because you would be clipping this seam anyway.