I haven’t posted any progress for awhile, but believe me I’ve been hard at work. I continue to use my Cabrera book as a guide, just using the techniques that make sense for this project. I decided to add flap pockets on the seam where the upper coat attaches to the skirt. The pattern as designed only has pockets in the lining. Two are in the coat tails which I totally don’t understand at all. I borrowed this idea from Simplicity’s frock coat pattern (#2895). It was a tricky little bit of sewing, but worth the effort in the end.
The completed flap.
A little peek inside.
Setting the sleeves is always the most difficult part. This is an instance where I refer to Cabrera. First, a strip of pocketing is basted around the sleeve opening on the coat. This prevents any stretching. The wool I’m using is quite loosely woven and it stretches and frays like crazy. This extra bit of work was time well spent. The sleeve is then set by basting with 1/4″ stitches. The seam is stitched with a 1/2″ allowance, even if the directions call for 5/8″. I’m glad to report that both sleeves went in on the first shot. No seam ripping!
The outside of the coat is finished for now. Off to the lining.