Confessions of a hand baster




Here are some construction detail pics.  The layout diagrams for this coat showed something (interfacing?) along the seamlines between the front and backs where they join the raglan sleeves.  An expert sewist from Pattern Review advised me that this is a product called Wigan.  It’s purpose is to reinforce the seam and to help it retain its shape since both the sleeve unit and front / back end up on the bias where they connect.  Also the weight of the garment hangs off this seam and it can cause the coat to sag.  Needless to say, this isn’t a product I was going to find at JoAnn Fabrics.  I improvised by fusing a lightweight interfacing over the seamline.  The twill fabric that I’m using can be easily stretched, it’s also way out of alignment as you’ll recall;  so I’ve pinned and then hand basted every seam.  The small amount of extra time that this step takes has been well worth it.  Plus, I’ve come to actually enjoy the process.  I’m using red and orange thread run through a block of beeswax, so I have a delightful aroma to enhance the zen of hand sewing.  The improvised technique worked, with the stitching running through the strips of interfacing.  

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