How is it possible that my time at The Tailoring Academy is drawing to a close. I have so many more things that I want to make. If you’re an Instagram follower you know that I’m working on a linen jacket, but I’d love to squeeze in another waistcoat before heading home. I have the fabric and an updated pattern, so in theory it should go together quickly. But as sewists, we know how that goes.
I haven’t posted since March, so here’s a little update.
The second part of the course has been devoted to trousers and a waistcoat. In my time off, primarily on Fridays, I’ve been able to squeeze out another jacket in addition to the required garments. I think all I can say is that it’s been a very green semester!
The trousers are actually finished despite the tacks and basted front crease. I finished them off in my room and need to get them back to the workroom for a serious final press. For some reason I didn’t enjoy making them, which is unfortunate. I think it’s the jetted front pockets. In a way they torpedoed the whole project. I really doubt that I would ever make that style of pocket again. But I would certainly make them for a client! I think it’s that they don’t fit into my personal lifestyle, which is much more relaxed.
If there was a saving grace for the entire project, it would have to be the kick tape at the hem. I had never used it before, and it truly “kicks” them up a notch. The fabric doesn’t hurt either. Shetland tweed from Abraham Moon & Sons.
The waistcoat is made with a worsted wool that I purchased in Paris. My kind of travel souvenir! I have enough for a pair of trousers, but that project is way in the future. I bought it to go with my rust windowpane jacket (more about that later), but it actually looks great with the dark teal jacket. That was a pleasant surprise for a project that’s had its share of frustrations.
First up, the waistcoat front is block fused. I’m fine with that approach, but here’s the rub. The fusible we used had a bad habit of accumulating on the underside of the press cloths we use. Multiply that time six students. It was just my luck to pick the wrong cloth when it came time to press my back belts. Say hello to black schmutz on lime green silk taffeta. Exasperated. I thought the top of my head would blow off!
But the sewing demons weren’t done with me. They conveniently placed oil on the bed of my machine. Say hello to oil stains to go with the black schmutz. Kill me now! Fortunately I was able to remove most of the oil by scraping a good amount of chalk dust onto the areas, and then hitting it with the iron. The chalk absorbs the oil and it can be brushed off. It’s a good trick, and I hope I never need it again! I hope you never need it either.
This past week was the Concours on Savile Row. Fancy cars, fancy clothes, and an open house at Dugdale Bros.; one of the fabric suppliers I’ve relied upon. I used their rust windowpane fabric for my second project, so the timing and situation was right for its official debut. So here I am, living the dream, swatch book (and wine) in hand.
Unfortunately, this pattern is being discontinued. There just was no market for it according to the CEO. I’m not sure what that says about me, considering how hard I fell for it! But as we all know, what goes around comes around. The quantities are limited, and if I’m smart, I’ll be placing an order when I’m stateside again. There’s the reverse of this pattern, lime green with an orange over check , and a lilac with cream that’s positively delicious.
Give yourself permission.
Go ahead.
Get dressed.
It’s OK.
Mainelymenswear 
Well done!
LikeLike
These makes look fabulous and it is amazing how the time has gone, no doubt that this course has taken your sewing to a new level, gone from excellent to brilliant.
LikeLike
Such beautiful garments and fabrics! The lavender and cream check sounds lovely. I hope you enjoy your last weeks, soak in the surroundings and knowledge, and don’t feel rushed to produce instead of enjoy. I’ve so enjoyed your posts.😊
LikeLike
Thank you again for your generosity in taking us along with you on your journey! Your pictures and posts leave me breathless! Take care.
LikeLike
Hi Duane,
I have so enjoyed your posts and Instagram throughout your year in England. How can it be coming to an end so quickly? Although I am sure you are anxious to get home to your family and house. You will be able to apply all your skills and knowledge to new designs and take time with them.
Thanks for the tips and I hope I never have to use them but sewing always presents new problems to solve. I am awaiting a refurbished Juki sewing machine which Inhope will help improve my sewing techniques. I often refer to your blog and you tube channel for tips and procedures so I hope you continue to do that.
Best of luck and happy sailing this summer.
Donna DeCourcy
Fredericton, NB
Sent from my iPad
LikeLike
I am so happy for you that you have had this wonderful adventure, although it is sadly drawing to a close. What a dream, and then to live it! Your tailoring and fabrics and style are classic and elegant, and you certainly model it well and can carry it off. Funny you should say, “Get dressed!” because I am thinking of my own clothes – the easier, the better, but I still like nice. Thanks so much for posting all this!
LikeLike
Thank you for all you have shared about your wonderful journey!
LikeLike
How great is that, Duane – wearing a self-tailored jacket and showcasing it on Savile Row! What a fantastic finale to your time here in the UK. Thank you for sharing your tailoring journey. It’s been so interesting to see your progress and how you’ve overcome problems that would’ve had me running for the door! I hope you enjoy the last few weeks at the academy – I’m sure Macclesfield will miss you!
LikeLike
I have so enjoyed your wonderful posts about tailoring in England – I actually drooled over the Savile Row photos and details. Did you ever hear about Ernest Wright scissors (made in Sheffield, UK) – they are reputed to be superb quality and quite expensive….
LikeLike
I haven’t heard of them, but I’m going to check them out right now. Thank you!
LikeLike
It has been so delightful, sharing this journey with you! Thanks so much for taking the time to include us! I love your descriptions & your great photos! It’s opened up a whole new world to me! Even so, looking forward to seeing you in person once you’re back stateside!
LikeLike
Oh my, I love all these fabrics singly and in concert!! They’re gorgeous and you’ve done them proud. Also that tailored rust jacket over a denim shirt. i MEAN. Nobody puts together a look like you!
LikeLike
Everything you’ve made is gorgeous, Duane. What a wonderful opportunity!
LikeLike
Inspirational, uplifting and a welcome treat to savor over and over. Personally working my way out of a very low period in my life. Your posts provide a glimmer of hope for how life can be. Thank you
I’ll be visiting my sister in mid-coast Maine over the summer. Any must see fabric spots?
Gratefully from Maryland.
LikeLike
Honestly I don’t shop for fabric much in Maine. Sewing menswear is its own animal, and most of the shops cater to quilters. Shops that come to mind for garment sewist include. Z Fabrics in Portland. Clementine in Rockland, and Fiddleheads in Belfast. Enjoy being in Maine and visiting your sister.
LikeLike
Your workmanship and attention to detail is inspiring 🙂
LikeLike
Your work and attention to detail is beautiful and inspiring. Great job!!
LikeLike
What a journey you’ve had! My favorite, predictably, is the green waistcoat. My kind of color. I have a question, please: do you block interface your wools before pattern layout/cutting? The Atelier Saison women’s suit series I’m studying includes this. BTW, it’s great (but not like being at the Tailoring Academy – sigh). Hope the balance of your study is wonderful.
LikeLike
Lydia, we block fused the fronts after cutting them out. We traced the fronts onto the interfacing with chalk. Then we removed the seam allowances while cutting it out. I’m hoping to make another waistcoat before my time at the academy is up. Duane
LikeLike
thank you!
LikeLike
Wonderful to follow your journey. I feel inspired to do more with my love of sewing.
LikeLike