The Toile de Jouy Jacket

It’s finally finished!

My interpretation of a Christian Dior toile jacket that’s featured in Kim Jones’ collection for Spring / Summer 2019. I’ve affectionately dubbed mine the “Too Poor for Dior” jacket.

For the record, here’s the original.

I die! The matching is perfect. If you look closely you can just make out the pocket flaps on the upper chest. Flawless. I have no idea how it’s constructed, but I love it. Thank you Kim Jones for realizing that men want more than skinny black suits. I mean, who wears them? Certainly not me.

So…. how do I recreate this look for less than an estimated $3,000? …..Enter vintage Simplicty pattern #5708 from 1982, and some left over drapery fabric from my attic.

I had to make surprisingly few adjustments to the pattern. I stripped away all the “Members Only” details, and shortened the sleeves to get rid of the blouson look. I also slimmed down the sleeves by removing one of the pleats at the cuff. That was pretty much it.

This is a picture of “zipper paralysis”. How do you match the pattern at the center front AND keep the zipper completely hidden? My solution….. avoid it for now and move on.

Let the matching games begin! With lots of thread tracing and basting, both the welt pockets and bottom band turned out well. I love this kind of a challenge.

The jacket is fully lined. It’s also underlined with a very thin gauze like cotton. A variety of interfacings were used. Heavy hair canvas for the collar, and both the sew-in and fusible “Shirt Crisp” interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply. I’ve learned that having a selection of different weights really helps create the structure that’s so important in menswear.

I skipped all the topstitching in favor of a cleaner, more minimalistic look. That, of course, requires some hand sewing, which I actually enjoy.

How did I put in the zipper? I honestly can’t even begin to explain all the machinations. Somehow it worked, and the toile matches across the front just as well as the Dior IMO.

The proof, as they say, is in the pudding!

Who cares if you’re “too poor for Dior”! I say “be your own luxury brand”. Sewing is a super power.

I’m off to my next project….. a pair of seersucker trousers to complete the look. As always, I’m so grateful for all the support and endless inspiration I get from the sewing community.

Homer and I wish you happy Spring sewing.

(This is, by the way, the perfect dog walking jacket!).

33 thoughts on “The Toile de Jouy Jacket

  1. The fabric makes for a very interesting jacket and you have pulled off the matching brilliantly. As I do not look at Dior would never have noticed this but your version is perfect, an exceptional piece of sewing.
    Your skill is very much rewarded and as you say your own luxury brand.
    An example for us all to follow if we have he patience and necessary skills.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Well done, and the pattern matching on your jacket is even better than the Dior at the front. Homer is the chicest accessory of all for spring!

    Liked by 1 person

  3. I’ve been waiting with bated breath for this, and oh, it did not disappoint! I am awed by the pattern matching, and the style and shape is something special. Two thumbs up, and thank you for showing us the progress, and the outcome!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. You speak “80s!!!” – thank you for the “Members Only”-ectomy, yet you redeem the 80s with the attic-retained fabric, and a pattern from the period, to create ANOTHER exquisite piece in your wardrobe.

    The pattern matching challenge (he who built a boat!), is precision redefined.

    Homer certainly has the most stylish man-pet of all his friends and admirers.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. The pattern matching is exception. Something that you find more so in high end couture and not ready to wear. Your tailoring skills are wonderful. I take a bow and honor your self taught sewing and tailor skills. The book that you use is a wonderful reference for all classic tailoring. It also warms my heart to see you photograph’ed with your dog Homer. I need take more pics of my own dog – maximus the westie who is sitting right next to me on the sofa on his pillow and blanket as I write this. Again job well done. You need to plan your fall ’19 menswear collection.

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Your work continues to amaze me…I have many questions for you that will probably have to wait until we meet at one of the MPB gatherings. You are so talented and patient in all phases of your creative endeavors, and I salute you as one of the best. You must be the best-dressed dog walker in your neighborhood. I thank you for sharing your talents with the sewing community. I cannot wait to follow your next project!

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Wow! This is the most beautiful jacket, truly wonderful! The pattern matching across the welts made me physically gasp! Your choice to omit the topstitching was spot on, it looks SO classy!
    You inspired me four years ago when I first started sewing, and you are still inspiring me now. Thank you!


  8. >> You inspired me four years ago when I first started sewing, and you are still inspiring me now. Thank you!

    This applies to me too. (I still have to start on that Belgian Chef Jacket though…)


  9. I know, I haven’t blogged in months, and I do miss it. I have one more shirt to make and then I’ll post “the shirts of summer”. This weekend I’m at Peter Lapin’s MPB day where I’ll pick up supplies for some Fall sewing. Then I’ll get back on the bandwagon!


  10. I absolutely love this jacket on you. What you have achieved is incredible. The pattern matching is mesmerising!!! I might have to make something similar for me. I have similar chinoiserie fabric on my windows but not for long 🤣


  11. Your profile in Closet Case patterns introduced me to your work–which is jaw dropping! I particularly love this jacket, and have ordered the books you recommend so I can up my game. Look forward to seeing more! I grew up spending time in Maine–so true about 10 months of winter! Seattle is dreary in the winter, but rarely cold.


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