It’s finally finished!
My interpretation of a Christian Dior toile jacket that’s featured in Kim Jones’ collection for Spring / Summer 2019. I’ve affectionately dubbed mine the “Too Poor for Dior” jacket.
For the record, here’s the original.
I die! The matching is perfect. If you look closely you can just make out the pocket flaps on the upper chest. Flawless. I have no idea how it’s constructed, but I love it. Thank you Kim Jones for realizing that men want more than skinny black suits. I mean, who wears them? Certainly not me.
So…. how do I recreate this look for less than an estimated $3,000? …..Enter vintage Simplicty pattern #5708 from 1982, and some left over drapery fabric from my attic.
I had to make surprisingly few adjustments to the pattern. I stripped away all the “Members Only” details, and shortened the sleeves to get rid of the blouson look. I also slimmed down the sleeves by removing one of the pleats at the cuff. That was pretty much it.
This is a picture of “zipper paralysis”. How do you match the pattern at the center front AND keep the zipper completely hidden? My solution….. avoid it for now and move on.
Let the matching games begin! With lots of thread tracing and basting, both the welt pockets and bottom band turned out well. I love this kind of a challenge.
The jacket is fully lined. It’s also underlined with a very thin gauze like cotton. A variety of interfacings were used. Heavy hair canvas for the collar, and both the sew-in and fusible “Shirt Crisp” interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply. I’ve learned that having a selection of different weights really helps create the structure that’s so important in menswear.
I skipped all the topstitching in favor of a cleaner, more minimalistic look. That, of course, requires some hand sewing, which I actually enjoy.
How did I put in the zipper? I honestly can’t even begin to explain all the machinations. Somehow it worked, and the toile matches across the front just as well as the Dior IMO.
The proof, as they say, is in the pudding!
Who cares if you’re “too poor for Dior”! I say “be your own luxury brand”. Sewing is a super power.
I’m off to my next project….. a pair of seersucker trousers to complete the look. As always, I’m so grateful for all the support and endless inspiration I get from the sewing community.
Homer and I wish you happy Spring sewing.
(This is, by the way, the perfect dog walking jacket!).