I’ve admitted it before, and will again…. I watch what’s coming down the menswear runways for inspiration. I like to see what’s new and whether it’s something I’d like to work into my wardrobe.
Season after season it’s always Missoni that draws me in. The use of color, texture and pattern always seems so perfectly coordinated. They make it look effortless, and it might be if only one had access to all their fabulous textiles. Alas, for us mere mortals it’s a challenge to imitate the look.
I would want to live in these clothes every day if I could. But there never seems to be a spare $1,000 just laying around, waiting to be blown on a sweater (not to mention the shirt and trousers to go with it!). Can you relate?
Enter — the Phoney Missoni cardigan!
This cardigan is made from a vintage Advance pattern that I found on Etsy. The fabric is a lightweight knit from Gorgeous Fabrics. Even though the pattern is printed rather than knit, it immediately struck me as “Missoni-esque”. Plus, the purple, brown, teal colorway works with most of my me-made wardrobe. Ann sent me a sample quickly; and I can’t tell you how much THAT kind of service means to us sewists in the hinterlands! I was instantly sold.
I make a muslin for everything I make. Maybe it’s a thrifty Yankee thing? I just hate to waste fabric on a project, no matter how small or simple it might appear. I cringe at the thought of a “wadder”. My muslins are always a mess (no wearable muslins in my world!). Messy as they are, they help me with fit issues AND they give me the “heads up” on the parts that may give me trouble down the road. (Like the cuff and weird space above).
This pattern has an absurd amount of ease in the sleeves. 2 inches! I’m not sure when men wore sweaters with puffy sleeves, but I’m not interested in starting a new trend.
I’ve undone my pattern to show how I eliminate excess ease from a sleeve cap. I slash the pattern across from arm pit to arm pit. Then I cut down perpendicularly from the “dot” at the shoulder seam.
I measure along the seam line the amount I want to remove from the front and back of the sleeve. Draw a radius, then overlap the pattern until the lines meet. The curve will need to be trued up a bit. Easy.
I added just a bit of shaping to the side seams (they were completely straight) and shortened the sleeves by a 1/2″. (They could actually be shorter). That was it for adjustments.
This sweater is lined with a bamboo French terry from my stash. All the seam allowances are finished off with Snug Hug rayon seam binding. There is also a strip of seam binding caught in the seams to prevent stretching. Otherwise, this sweater would stretch down to my knees.
The sleeves, minus the crazy amount of ease, fit easily into the armscye. I take the time to baste my sleeves in because I hate getting jabbed by all the pins. Plus, is there anything worse than having to pick out a sleeve seam because there’s a catch in it? Drives me crazy!
Patch pockets, slouchy fit, super soft, brass snaps instead of buttons.
Fabric — Gorgeous Fabrics
Lining — Vogue Fabrics (deep stash)
Snaps — JoAnn’s
Polar vortex begone!! Time to start thinking about a Spring project.
Happy mid-winter sewing to all.