Oh, Pierre Cardin! As a young man in the 70’s, I remember that you were everywhere! (Along with your little curly cue “P”)
You designed the famous Beatles suit…..
And the AMC Javelin — Pierre Cardin edition. Yikes!!!
Was it indiscriminate licensing that got you temporarily kicked out of the “couturier’s club”? Who cares…. I’m just glad some Vogue Paris Originals of your designs are still popping up from time to time.
I’ve been collecting the materials to make this vintage Pierre Cardin coat since Spring. In my mind I had this coat finished by now, but……that’s the way things go when you’re a notoriously slow sewist!
The fabric is a brushed Italian wool coating that I found in the upstairs 50% off room at Stonemountain and Daughter this past April. Score!!! The threads and buttons I picked up at MPB day in August. The lining will be a wine colored flannel backed satin. Tres dramatique. Oui? There’s also a “mystery fabric” that I’ll be using for welts and bound buttonholes.
The real challenge has been in the fitting. It’s been a long time since I’ve started from “square one” with a pattern, and this one has proven difficult.
Mainelydad meets Goldilocks….
This coat is so small I can’t even button it! (The basted lines are the center fronts, which should lay one on top of the other. Fat chance).
This version is too big. Adding more room in the chest pushed the extra fabric to the back. From Pierre Cardin to…. YSL trapeze dress?
This version is closer to “just right.” Not perfect, but I’m going with it. The side back is lapped over the side front about an inch, and then tapered up to underarm. All the crazy curved seams are retained.
So… things learned thus far
- curved seams are much easier to sew than I imagined. Stay stitching and clipping make it possible.
- There isn’t an outrageous amount of ease in the sleeve. Kind of shocking.
- I really need Kenneth D. King’s new book on fitting. Santa, are you listening?
- Old worn out flannel sheets aren’t the best material for a fitting muslin.
I’m not used to working with such fluffy fabric. To keep things as accurate as possible each piece was cut out individually. Time consuming, and hopefully worth the extra effort.
Winter seems to be upon us with snow in the forecast. Time to get a move on!