Fashion Sewing Supply, Jedediah Pants, knit ribbing, men who sew, men's shirt, menswear, shirtmaking, Snaps, Thread Theory Designs

New Clothes — A Spring-y Shirt and a Very Fall Jacket

by mainelydad

First up, the shirt.

I fell hard for this double gauze fabric at Stonemountain and Daughter while I was in CA for my daughter’s recent wedding. If you’re ever in the Bay Area, make sure this store is on your itinerary. It’s a sewist’s paradise. All I had to do was touch this fabric and I was sold. It’s incredibly soft. I knew it would make a luxurious shirt, and it did.

I had never seen double gauze, let alone worked with it, so I was a little apprehensive headed into this project. The two layers of fabric are “tacked together” by a single thread every 3/8″. It’s completely imperceptible on the fabric’s right side, and barely visible on the back. I had no problem with the layers separating, but I still handled it gently. I will most likely always handwash this shirt.

I have to admit that I really enjoyed not having to match anything on this shirt! This is my TNT shirt, a vintage Butterick pattern that I’ve tweaked to my liking. It’s a basic baggy buttondown, which I find comfortable to wear.

This time around I added a storm flap on the left which buttons over the top of the chest pocket. I interfaced the top edge of the pocket to keep it from sagging down when the flap is unbuttoned. The buttonhole is done in a dark gold thread for a little extra pizzazz.

Homer, of course, had to get in the act!

The shirt is interfaced with Light Crisp fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply. It was the perfect weight for the fabric. I can’t recommend their products enough. I’m also wearing a pair of Jedediah Pants from Thread Theory, a pattern I love.

Spring is a short season here in Maine, so I’ll fast forward to Fall….

Here is the completed bomber jacket. This has been a fun project for me, and I’m pleased with the way it turned out.

I learned a lot of new skills in the making of this jacket.

  • I learned how to work with a walking foot.
  • I learned how to grade a pattern up a size (thanks to Instagram followers!)
  • I learned how to install a snap (so much easier than I imagined)
  • I learned how to shorten and install a separating zipper into a lined garment
  • I learned how to work with knit ribbing
  • I improved my plaid matching abilities

We’re ready for long walks when the weather turns cooler. I have LOTS of left over fabric, so maybe Homer will get a matching jacket (Minus any ribbing!!!)

As always, I appreciate all the support that I receive from the sewing community. Be well, and happy sewing.

15 thoughts on “New Clothes — A Spring-y Shirt and a Very Fall Jacket”

  1. Impressive sewing! I’d love more details on how you made the storm flap for your shirt pocket. I’ve seen that on RTW lately and think it looks interesting. The jacket is a tour de force of skills and looks amazing on you. Well done!

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  3. The jacket is amazing in execution, add in the mix of plaid with quilting, and how the colors evokes autumn (in all the best ways!).

    As for that vintage sewing pattern, and the dog…it’s official, you are the male Laura Mae. It has been deemed by the regional office, in Columbus, Ohio.

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  4. What a great outfit! Particularly that jacket, it looks fantastic. I’ve loved seeing the stages on Instagram too, thank you! The quilting really sets it apart.
    And Homer is gorgeous- the perfect photo shoot companion!
    I hope WordPress is running smoothly for you? I just had to upgrade because I ran out of space!

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  6. Wow the jacket is amazing – perfection just like the shirt. I was concerned when you were having issues with with the ribbing as I haven’t even had success with ~ ahem ~ elasticised waistbands. Nice to list new skills at the bottom of the blog.

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  8. Hi, I just wanted to say how much I enjoy reading your blog. Your attention to detail is marvy, really takes your sewing to the “Tailor Made” level.
    You’ve given me inspiration and a few ideas for solving some old wrinkles! Could resist that and it’s a fair description.
    I vote Yes on a coat for Norman. When I was eleven my Mom and I got a Std. Schnauzer, Fred. His bed was in my room and at 12wks old on his first night with us when my mom passed by in the hallway she heard ggGGrrr Boof! Natural guard instincts. Fred had a wool coat. It held up through cold, some rain and even some kneading from his Siamese cats. I’ve been thinking about that coat lately and wishing I had a pattern. It was made with a plaid wool referred to as horse blanket wool. No lining. Just bias tape trim on the edges.It was one piece with 1? leather strap and buckle that adjusted and closed the neck/chest just to the left of center. (Once adjusted it, we just slid it over his head so I’m fuzzy on the details) the rest of the coat was held on with a self fabric belt that went through D rings on the left side. Around the body at the belly just behind the ribcage. I don’t see anything like it made today. In fact it was unusual then and that was fifty years ago. We got a lot of compliments, “what a great looking coat”! It was! That coat kept him warm when he went to the groomer for his Xmas clip and through all his adventures for almost fifteen years. I bet you can make one at least that good for Norman. 😉

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  9. Correction, if I had proof read my post BEFORE I hit send I would have noticed my brain replaced Homer with Norman. I can’t blame this on spell check.
    Abject Apologies, Homer. ( a much more suitable moniker )

    Sincerely, Merry

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    1. I used a vintage pattern found on Etsy. Vogue 7923. Etsy and EBay are great sources for men’s patterns. I just got another jacket pattern, Simplicity 5708, that’s worth looking for. And if your guy is wanting a “Shacket”, there are always tons of 70’s leisure suit patterns that are perfect.

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