Up until now the back vent has been basted closed. In order to work the lining around the vent the basting is removed. The left vent (which is on the right when working from the inside of the coat, ouch– makes my brain hurt) is actually an extension of the center back seam. This is where I AM VERY GLAD that I clipped the extended seam allowance on the lining. I press the lining back using the clip as a guide and position the fold about 1/4″ from the left vent edge. Baste this in place. Unfortunately, none of this can be permanently attached until the lining is attached to the hem. It will make sense as you work yourself through this process.
The rest of this project is all about handsewing, some of which is simple, some…. not so much. Here goes.
I folded up the bottom edge of the lining 1″ and pressed it. The fold is then slipstitched to the hem of the coat. I stitch along the seam where the muslin strip is attached to the hem. This makes it very easy to keep the lining length consistent. Here you see where I’m crossing over the messy cross stitches that are holding the facings and vent flaps in place. Eventually the lining will fold down and only 1/2″ of the stitches will be visible. The seams in the lining should line up with the seams of the coat. It’s nice when things work out this way.
At the facings and vents the lining is folded down and slipstitched in place. This creates what is called a take-up tuck, and prevents the lining from pulling up the hem when the garment is worn.
The right vent is a totally different animal. Again, I was thankful that I had clips in my lining material to mark the fold. First, the fold is pressed and basted close to the edge of the vent. The lining hem on this side of the coat must be completed before going further. Once the hem is complete come back to the vent and muddle through! Sorry for the crappy directions, but that’s the reality. A clip must be made in the lining at the top of the vent, the edges are folded back and slip stitched in place. The goal is to cover a multitude of sins as best one can. You will sense what has to happen, but it’s not easy. I just try my best, knowing that it’s all inside the coat where no one will see it.
Lastly the lining is attached to the vent, which is where this whole process started! I like to finish the edges along the vent with a pick stitch. It’s fun to do and adds a nice hand tailored touch.
I have actually done all the buttonholes and buttons. So this coat just needs a good steam pressing and I’ll be ready to model it. Tonight and tomorrow are supposed to be the coldest of season so far, so it will be a good test. Wish me luck!