I’m really deviating from the pattern / instructions at this point. My issue is that I’m going to be inserting shoulder pads, and I only know one way to do it! It involves pad stitching the shoulder pad into haircanvas which extends across the upper chest to the armscye. I used this technique on both the wedding jacket and the frock coat with good results. Why not use it here?
Here is the original facing pattern onto which I’ve taped a scrap of Swedish tracing paper. I’ve lined it up over the coat front and made a curve over to the armscye. There’s no sense in making the extension fit the coat front at this point. Just roughly cut out the haircanvas at the shoulder and the armscye. Better to have too much fabric than too little. Excess canvas will be trimmed away after basting the front to the canvas.
The coat front is then placed on top of the canvas and basted into place so that they become one. During the basting process the fabric is constantly smoothed.
The first basting line runs from just below the shoulder seam down the center of the coat front. The fabric is then folded back to reveal the pocket. The edge of the pocket is secured to the canvas with diagonal stitches. The fabric is folded back and basting continues.
The back shoulder seam must be eased between the two notches. My buddy Cabrera would have me reinforce this seam with a strip of semi-bias lining material. I’m too lazy for that. Plus my fabric has very little stretch to it. We have to choose our battles, right?
So here is the completed coat body, basted every which way, ready to have the sleeves set. I think I’ll save that for another day.