I’ve cut out the jacket fronts and back. Each front is made up of 3 sections with horizontal pockets. I’m a little concerned that the pockets might want to sag, so I’ve inserted a 1″ strip of wool canvas at the top edge of each pocket. This is being held in place with pick stitching. I saw quite a few jackets with pick stitching on my most recent trip to NYC. My fabric is quite coarse so the effect is very subtle. It would be more pronounced on a finer fabric. There is a good tutorial by Kenneth King that can be found online. To keep the stitching straight he suggests using a strip of low tack masking tape. It really couldn’t be easier. I used 2 strands of embroidery floss.
The jacket fronts are then placed onto the canvas. The lapel roll lines should be aligned and there should be a 1/2″ margin of canvas visible around fashion fabric. Once things are in position the the whole thing is systematically basted together. There are 8 specific stitchlines done in an ordered sequence. While basting, one is smoothing the fabric ahead of the basting stitches. It’s very rewarding to see things coming together.
The basting lines are positioned so that the jacket fabric can be folded back. This reveals the edges of the pockets, which are diagonally stitched to the canvas. Let’s take a break before round 2 of pad stitching begins!